If you are on a time crunch, here is the distilled version of this entire article:

Your skin is basically a self-renewing, dead-cell-shedding machine, but sometimes, it needs a little help. Too much help though, will make your skin barrier cry in the corner and cause all sorts of problems. 

So, we need to exfoliate wisely. And that’s why we need to know what we’re doing (ie read this article completely 🙄).

That’s what exfoliation is all about. The fine art of kicking out overstaying skin cells so your complexion stays smooth, bright, and breakout-free.

Now, we’ve got two main weapons:

1. Physical exfoliants (scrubs, brushes, and tools that buff away dead cells—great for instant results but risky for irritation) and;
2. Chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, and enzymes that dissolve the glue holding those dead cells hostage).

• AHAs (like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid) are your go-to for glow, texture, and tackling fine lines.
• BHAs (hello, salicylic acid) go deep, decongesting oily pores.
• PHAs are the gentler cousins, perfect for sensitive skin.
• Enzymes nibble away dead skin like a tiny, polite army of Pac-Men.
• Want hardcore renewal? Retinoids reprogram your skin at the cellular level (so be careful), while azelaic acid multitasks as an exfoliant, anti-inflammatory, and brightener.
• And if you’re using benzoyl peroxide ☠️, know it’s more of an acne-fighter than a true exfoliant.

Keep it balanced, stay hydrated, eat well, and wear SPF, because fresh, baby-soft skin is also extra sun-sensitive. Oh and most importantly.. always shop at Dermacart. 😜

Now let's dive in!

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It’s estimated that an adult female sheds about 30,000 to 40,000 skin cells every minute, which adds up to roughly 50 million skin cells per day!

Yes, you read that right, your skin a self exfoliating organ, and it’s really busy with it too. 

Although it’s a natural process, factors like aging, dehydration, and sun damage can slow this process, leading to dull or flaky skin and sometimes unhealthy skin. 

To really understand how exfoliating ingredients affect your skin (and this means how exfoliation can help the skin or harm it) it helps to understand the structure and function of the skin, especially the areas where exfoliation and exfoliants interact directly with the skin.

Then, when you discover new exfoliating ingredients, you have a clearer understanding of how they work and if they suit your skin. 

Together, this information helps you create exfoliation routines and choose products that truly benefit your skin and help you achieve healthy, radiant, and happy skin. 

Your skin’s ability to continually renew happens through the processes of keratinization and desquamation, and it is essential to healthy skin. So getting the most out of your exfoliation routine starts with knowing more about your skin. 

Skin: Understanding Your Body’s First Line of Defence 

Knowing more about your skin’s anatomy helps you to make sense of how keratinization and desquamation happen, why they’re important, and how they influence exfoliation. 

It also helps you to understand where they take place in the skin, along with how and where exfoliating ingredients are working or acting. 

Your skin consists of three main layers, each with specific functions. 

The bottom, or innermost layer is the hypodermis or subcutaneous layer. 

Sitting on top of it is the dermis, and the epidermis is the uppermost layer, which makes up the surface of your skin that you touch, feel, and see. 

The epidermis reflects what is happening in the layers below it, as well as what your skin is being subjected to from the environment and the world around you. 

The skin naturally exfoliates itself, and this exfoliation happens in the epidermis. 

Think of the epidermis as a brick wall sitting on a foundation (of the dermis and hypodermis that support it). The cells of the epidermis are the bricks that make up the wall. 

Just as people build walls for protection, the epidermis provides your first line of defence.  

It keeps important substances in your body and protects you from unwanted and harmful substances entering your body and damaging your vital tissues and organs. 

The epidermis is made up of five layers of cells (and each layer has multiple rows of cells) that are in different stages of transformation and maturity. 

There five layers are the:

• Stratum corneum, which is the uppermost layer of the skin. 
• Stratum lucidium, sometimes called the translucent layer
• Stratum granulosum, or granular layer
• Stratum spinosum, or prickle layer
• Stratum germinativum, also known as the stratum basale, or basal layer

The process of transformation and maturing that skin cells go through as they move up from the basal layer to the other layers is keratinization. 🤯

When the cells reach their final destination, the stratum corneum, they die and flake off in a process known as desquamation. (And this is how the skin naturally exfoliates.)

Okay, maybe that was a bit too much science, but it was important to cover since the rest of this article depends on it. Now, this is where the fun begins!

These epidermal cells are called keratinocytes, and when they reach the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes.

Keratinization and desquamation are essential processes in the skin's health, integrity, and renewal cycle, and are the key to understanding the effects of exfoliation and exfoliating ingredients.

How Epidermal Cells Change From Birth To Shedding (And Why It Matters)

What is Keratinization? 

Epidermal cells are called keratinocytes, and keratinization is the process of change and maturing these cells go through as they move from the stratum germinativum to their final destination, the stratum corneum. 

Here’s what happens to them as they move from the deepest layer of the epidermis to the skin’s surface: 

1. New Cells are ‘Born’:

 Your stratum germinativum is constantly making new cells. Think of this layer as a skin cell "factory" where stem cells continually divide to create fresh new skin cells called keratinocytes.

2. Moving Up and Maturing:  

The continuous formation of new cells in the stratum germinativum pushes older cells upward into the different skin layers (the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum). 

As the keratinocytes move upward, they change and mature. 

Have you ever been to a gaming hall and seen the penny pusher or coin cascade machines? Well, the way they work is similar to keratinization and how the cells move up through the layers of the epidermis.  

3. Protein Production:

When keratinocytes move into the stratum granulosum, they make important proteins, keratin and tiny granules that contain a protein called profilaggrin.

Keratin is a strong, protective protein laid down in your skin cells that helps make them resilient and waterproof. 

It forms a built-in shield that gives your skin strength and helps it stay smooth and resistant to damage.

Profilaggrin stores specialized protein that helps keep your skin strong and hydrated.

When your skin needs it, profilaggrin breaks down into filaggrin. Fillagrin bundles keratin together so the keratinocytes stay tightly packed, hold in moisture, and keep your skin barrier healthy.

As filaggrin breaks down, it creates natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which help the skin hold on to water, keeping it soft, smooth, and protect it from dryness and irritation. That's what we LOVE.

4. Final Transformation:

When keratinocytes reach the stratum corneum, they go through major changes:

• Their nucleus (the cell's control center) and other internal parts break down. In other words, the cells die. 🥺
• Profilaggrin converts to filaggrin, which helps organize keratin fibers.
• A tougher protein coating replaces the cell membranes.
• They release fatty substances (lipids) into the spaces between cells. 

5. Becoming Corneocytes:

By the time these cells transform into corneocytes, they are flattened sacs filled with keratin, surrounded by a tough outer shell. 

They’re like shields or scales and overlap each other, like roof tiles to form your skin's protective outer barrier. 

This entire process creates the tough but flexible barrier that protects your body from the outside world!  

Desquamation: How Your Skin Sheds Dead Skin Cells

Desquamation is how your skin naturally sheds dead corneocytes. 

After keratinocytes complete their journey to the surface of the skin and become corneocytes, they don't stay there forever. Your body has to remove them, and this is how it does it:

1. Breaking the Connections: 

Special enzymes in your skin act like scissors and cut the desmosomes that hold corneocytes together. 

Desmosomes are protein bridges that work like velcro fasteners and tether keratinocytes together as they move through the epidermis.

2. Dissolving the Glue: 

Other enzymes break down the fatty substance between cells. This lipid layer is like mortar between bricks, and when it breaks down, cells can separate and shed more easily.

3. Perfect pH:

These enzymes work best when your skin is slightly acidic (around pH 5.5). This is why maintaining your skin's natural pH is important - if your skin becomes too alkaline from harsh soaps, this process doesn't work well.

4. Invisible Flaking:

Once the connections break, individual cells, or small groups of cells, fall off your skin. This happens so gradually you don't see the shedding happening. 

Visible shedding usually indicates skin damage, unhealthy skin, or a skin condition. Think of peeling after sunburn, or conditions where the skin is very dry and flaky. 

5. The 28-Day Cycle:

In healthy skin, it takes about 28 days for a new skin cell to form, travel to the surface, and eventually shed. 

The journey from when a keratinocyte is produced in the stratum germinativum to when it becomes a corneocyte in the stratum corneum, takes about 14 days. Then it spends approximately 14 days as a corneocyte before it flakes off. 

This timing changes depending on your age (it slows as you get older), body location, and your health.

This constant process of making new cells and shedding old ones keeps your skin healthy, allows it to repair damage, and helps it adapt to different environments. 

It is necessary for your skin constantly to renew itself to stay healthy and keep protecting you.

How Keratinization and Desquamation Keep Your Skin Healthy?

Keratinization and desquamation are essential to your skin’s functioning and well being because they:  

• Create a Strong Shield to Protect your Skin and Body 

1. Physical protection: The tough dead corneocytes on your skin’s surface act like armor, protecting you from scrapes, cuts, and everyday wear and tear.

2. Germ and chemical barrier: They stop harmful bacteria, viruses, and chemicals from getting into your body and causing disease and harm.

3. Water balance: The lipid layer between the keratinocytes and corneocytes that we compared to the mortar between bricks earlier, works like waterproofing - it keeps moisture in the skin when it's dry outside and prevents your skin from soaking up too much water when bathing or swimming. 

4. Sun protection: These cells provide some natural (though limited) defence against harmful UV rays.

 

• Keep Your Skin Fresh and Healthy

1. Constant renewal: Just like old, worn-out parts need to be replaced, keratinization and desquamation are a built-in maintenance system for your skin. They replace damaged cells regularly with new, healthy ones, to prevent the buildup of old and injured cells.

2. Fighting infections: By constantly shedding your outermost cells, your body removes germs that have landed on your skin before they can cause problems.

3. Healing wounds: These same processes help your skin repair itself when you get cuts or scrapes.

4. Removing toxins: Some harmful substances that touch your skin get trapped in cells that eventually shed taking the toxins with them and helping to protect your skin and body.

 

• Help Your Skin Adapt to Changes 

1. Changing thickness: Your skin can become thicker in areas that need more protection (like your palms) and thinner in more sensitive areas.

2. Maintaining proper pH: They help your skin stay slightly acidic, which is necessary to maintain a healthy microbiome. It helps prevent harmful bacteria from growing and causing harm.

3. Responding to stress: When your skin faces friction or pressure, it can speed up cell production to create more protection.

4. Helping Sensory Functions: Proper cell turnover helps maintain your skin's ability to feel touch, temperature, and pain. All these senses help keep you safe and protect your body. 

What Happens When Things Go Wrong?

The balance between making new cells and shedding old ones is crucial not just for how your skin looks, but for how well it protects you and interacts with the world around you.

Many factors can disrupt healthy keratinization and desquamation, ranging from the skin being injured to imbalances in the body. 

When these processes are disrupted, various skin disorders can occur: 

• Hyperkeratosis occurs when the rate between keratinization and desquamation is out of sync. Simply, there is too much keratin or too little shedding of corneocytes. Either desquamation is too slow, or too many keratinocytes are being produced. 🧟‍♂️

It causes a build of corneocytes leading to thickened, rough skin. Acne, dandruff, calluses, corns, warts, keratosis pilaris, and certain types of eczema are some examples of hyperkeratosis.  

It’s a protective response of the skin usually caused by too much friction or some type of chronic irritation. (Trees do something similar 🌳) 

• Parakeratosis happens when keratinization ‘malfunctions’ and the keratinocytes are not mature by the time they reach the stratum corneum.

Cells are produced too quickly and, being immature when they reach the stratum corneum, fail to flake off properly. Parakeratosis happens when an internal imbalance or inflammation increases cell turnover in stratum germinativum. 

Psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and some fungal infections are examples of parakeratosis.

The balanced coordination of keratinization and desquamation is necessary to maintain not just the appearance of skin, but its essential protective functions and overall health.

You become more vulnerable to infections, as harmful bacteria can build up on the skin, or they can enter the body causing infections. 

Keratinization and desquamation show you that the skin has its own built in exfoliating mechanisms that are vital to your health and your wellbeing. 

So, how you exfoliate your skin matters. 

You want to choose exfoliating ingredients and methods that support these processes to enhance your skin’s wellbeing rather than harming it.  

How Exfoliation Affects Your Skin

Most people understand that exfoliation removes old corneocytes from the surface of the skin, helping to smooth its texture and appearance.  

Exposing newer, healthy skin cells helps improve the penetration and benefits of skincare products, improve the appearance of your complexion, and help keep your skin clear of problems caused by congestion in the pores like blackheads and breakouts. 

But it has several other important effects on desquamation and keratinization. When it is done properly, it will enhance the overall functioning, health, and appearance of your skin. 

Effects on Desquamation

Exfoliation helps shed (desquamate) corneocytes at the end of their life cycle and:

• Speed Up Natural Shedding: 

Tiny protein bridges hold together keratinocytes and corneocytes called desmosomes.

Mechanical scrubs physically break these connections, while chemical exfoliants (like alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids) dissolve them. 

They help remove the corneocytes in a way similar to what naturally happens, but faster. 

Exfoliation speeds up desquamation by removing cells that would have eventually flaked off anyway.

• Thin the Surface of the Epidermis: 

Regular exfoliation thins your epidermis temporarily by removing multiple layers of dead cells at once, instead of the slow, one-by-one shedding that happens naturally. 

Effects on Keratinization

• Feedback Sends "Make More Cells" Signals:

 When you remove the upper layers of the epidermis, your body signals to the stratum germinativum to produce new keratinocytes and keratinize them faster to replace the lost cells. 

Essentially, your skin is initiating its ‘repair mode’ to boost keratinization and restore your skin’s natural protective barrier function. 

• Helps Normalize Cell Production: 

Moderate exfoliation can help get your skin back on track and normalize cell turnover rates if your skin is not shedding cells properly. 

This is useful when cell turnover and desquamation slow down because of aging, poor health, or skin conditions that cause a build-up corneocytes that are not shed like acne, or ichthyosis.

The Effects of Different Types Of Exfoliation On Your Skin

The two methods of exfoliating your skin are physical and chemical exfoliation, and each method has benefits and disadvantages. 

Understanding how these methods affect the skin will help you choose the right method that will improve your skin's health and condition rather than harming it.

Let’s look at each method in more detail: 

Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliation, also known as mechanical exfoliation, is when you use abrasive particles or tools to remove corneocytes from the skin’s surface.

How Does Physical Exfoliation Work?

Physical exfoliants work through direct mechanical action, using friction and creating micro abrasions on the skin's surface that physically dislodge and remove dead skin cells. 

Physical exfoliation:

• Removes the outermost layer of dead corneocytes that are ready and waiting to be shed.
• Stimulates blood circulation to the skin's surface.
• Produces visible results after a single use. The skin looks fresher and brighter and feels smooth.
• Enhances product penetration. Physical exfoliation helps products get absorbed into the fresh, healthy cells rather than corneocytes that are about to be shed. 

Common Physical Exfoliants

• Scrubs: 

Scrubs are probably the most well-known physical exfoliants. They are formulations containing particles such as sugar, salt, jojoba beads, or ground nut shells like ground apricot kernels.

• Microbeads: 

These are synthetic beads used in exfoliating formulations. The advantage of microbeads is they can be made into perfectly round spheres that exfoliate the skin more gently.
Natural scrub particles have asymmetrical shapes and can have jagged edges that scratch the skin’s surface and cause micro tears. They can be harmful to the skin, especially sensitive skins or when they’re used too frequently or massaged into the skin roughly. 

Microbeads are banned in many countries because of environmental concerns. They eventually wash into the oceans and are harmful to marine life and ecosystems. 

The good news is that cosmetic technology is always developing, and natural particles like jojoba beads can be made into smooth round particles that do not cause harm to the skin. 

• Brushes and Devices: 

Facial brushes, silicone scrubbers, and electronic cleansing tools are all ways to physically exfoliate the skin.

What are the Benefits of Physical Exfoliation?

• Gives immediate results that you can see and feel
• Simple to use and understand
• Easy to incorporate into cleansing routines
• Often more affordable than specialized chemical exfoliants 
• Suitable for skin types that may not tolerate chemical exfoliants well

What are the Disadvantages of Physical Exfoliation?

• They can create uneven exfoliation patterns. In other words, they exfoliate the skin unevenly. 
• Risk of damage to the skin from micro-tears if particles are too sharp or pressure too intense
• Potential for irritation, especially for sensitive or inflamed skin
• Can exacerbate active breakouts or rosacea
• Too harsh for daily use

Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation involves the use of specific acids, enzymes, or other bioactive compounds that dissolve the bonds between skin cells or directly dissolve the cells themselves, allowing them to shed more easily without the friction of physical exfoliation. 

How Chemical Exfoliation Works

Unlike physical methods, chemical exfoliants work at a molecular level by:

• Dissolving bonds that hold keratinocytes and corneocytes together.
• Breaking down keratin proteins of the corneocytes.
• Penetrating at various depths into the layers of the epidermis. 

How deep a chemical exfoliant penetrates depends on its properties, for example, if it is water soluble or oil soluble, its pH, and its molecular size.

• Working continuously over time rather than just during application, which is how physical exfoliants work.
• Affecting multiple layers of the skin, not just the surface. 

Some chemical exfoliants can penetrate to the deeper layers of the epidermis and in turn affect the upper part of the dermis too. 

What are the Benefits of Chemical Exfoliation?

• They exfoliate the skin evenly
• Can target specific skin concerns (acne, hyperpigmentation, scarring, and aging concerns.)
• Penetrates beyond the surface of the stratum corneum for deeper results
• Often have additional benefits like hydration and brightening
• Can be formulated for various skin concerns and sensitivity levels
• Less likely to cause micro-tears or physical damage
• Available in various types of formulation (leave-on products, wash-off, professional peels)

What are the Disadvantages of Chemical Exfoliation?

• Requires more knowledge to use properly and safely 
• Can damage the skin if misused or overused
• Often increases sun sensitivity
• May cause skin purging when you first start using them
• Some AHA formulations require neutralization
• Results may take longer to become noticeable
• Higher-quality formulations may be more expensive

Understanding the Benefits and Risks of Exfoliation

To get the true benefits of exfoliation and develop an exfoliation routine that enhances your skin’s wellbeing, it helps to understand the benefits and risks of exfoliation. This helps you customize your exfoliation routine so you help your skin rather than harm it. 

What are the Benefits of Exfoliation?

• Improves your skin texture and tone. Your skin texture becomes smoother and more even, and your skin tone will even out too with a good exfoliation routine.
• Enhances the penetration of skincare products you apply after exfoliation.
• Reduces congested pores, blackheads, and breakouts.
• Brightens your complexion by removing dull surface cells.
• Stimulates cell renewal, which improves your skin’s appearance and health.
• Gradually improve fine lines and superficial scarring.
• Makes it easier to apply makeup by giving a more even application and better finish.

What are the Risks of Over-Exfoliation?

Over exfoliating or using incorrect exfoliation methods and products damage your skin barrier function. 

Skincare professionals often speak about protecting your skin barrier function, so to fully understand the risks of exfoliation, it helps to know what your skin barrier function is and why it’s important. 

As you know, your epidermis is like a protective wall for your body. Your skin barrier function makes this “wall” actually work as an excellent barrier.

The stratum corneum forms the barrier. The corneocytes, natural lipids that hold the cells together, along with the natural moisturizing factors, create your skin barrier. 

Your skin barrier keeps harmful substances like bacteria, toxins, pollutants, allergens, and irritants out, and beneficial substances, especially water, in your skin so it doesn’t dry out. 

It also lets your skin heal properly when it is injured and helps you to regulate your body temperature. 

When your skin barrier is healthy, your skin feels smooth, comfortable, and looks clear and healthy. 

But when it gets damaged (from too much exfoliation, using harsh products, stress, or environmental factors), you might notice redness, dryness, irritation, breakouts, or sensitivity.

Your barrier function is vital to the health and well being of your skin and your body because it's basically your skin's natural defence system, and your first line of defence against harm from the outside world. 

Over exfoliation can:

• Compromise your skin barrier function
• Increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
• Cause skin sensitivity and inflammation
• Increase keratinization in an unhealthy way as the skin tries to protect itself
• Lead to hyperpigmentation because it irritates the skin and causes inflammation.  It responds by producing more melanin to try to protect itself.
• Increase your susceptibility to UV damage
• Cause sensitization to previously tolerated ingredients

Skin Renewal: Power Players in Exfoliation

It’s time to get to know the different exfoliating ingredients available. Knowing what they are and how they work helps you understand how they can benefit your skin or harm it. 

It also helps you to choose the right products that suit your skin according to your skin’s condition and your skincare goals.  

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs work through a chemical process that affects the bonds between skin cells. They’re water soluble, which affects how deep they penetrate and how they interact with skin cells.

AHAs:

• Weaken and dissolve the ionic bonds that hold corneocytes together in the stratum corneum.
• Penetrate the skin to varying depths in the epidermis because of their water soluble properties and molecular size. (AHAs like glycolic acid, have the smallest molecule structure and can penetrate the deepest). 
• Work at lower pH levels that are more acidic than the skin's natural pH.
• Continue to work as long as they remain on the skin. Because of this it is essential to follow their usage instructions and apply them for the correct amount of time, and then neutralize or remove them properly so they don’t continue to exfoliate the skin.

How do AHAs Benefit the Skin?  

• Decongest clogged pores to reduce and prevent blackheads and pustules 
• Improve the skin texture by refining and renewing it. Skin texture becomes smoother and more even while scars and fine lines reduce.   
• Fade hyperpigmentation: AHAs, brighten dull skin tone by improving cellular renewal and boosting exfoliation. They help to improve uneven pigmentation by accelerating the removal of the skin cells that contain excess pigment. Some AHAs, like glycolic acid, can target and help lighten hyperpigmentation more directly. 
• Stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. Some AHAs, especially those that penetrate deeper into the epidermis, stimulate cellular renewal of collagen and elastin fibres too, even though these fibres are found in the dermis. This helps treat aging concerns, uneven skin texture, and scarring more intensely.  

What Skin Types are AHAs Suitable For?  

• Oily and Combination: AHAs are particularly beneficial for oily or combination skin because they help prevent congestion in the pores that can lead to the formation of breakouts and acne. 
• Normal or well balanced: They help to improve and maintain the appearance and condition of well balanced skins. 
• Dry and Sensitive: AHAs like lactic acid are gentle enough for dry and sensitive skin. 

They help to boost skin hydration and enhance skin barrier function while exfoliating and improving skin texture. But it’s important to remember to use all AHAs with care on dry and sensitive skins to prevent irritation.

• Mature Skin: AHAs are also effective for mature skin, as they help reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and the appearance of age spots by increasing cell turnover.

Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and malic acid are the most popular AHAs in skin care, so let’s get to know these AHA superstars better. 

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular structure of all the AHAs, which means it can penetrate the deepest into the epidermis and enhance its exfoliating effects.

Depending on the pH and the formulation used, glycolic acid can penetrate as deep as the stratum spinosum and, in some cases, the stratum germinativum. 

This deep penetration makes glycolic acid one of the most effective AHAs for addressing concerns like photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and texture issues. But, it's also why it can cause more irritation than larger molecule AHAs like lactic or mandelic acid, which don't penetrate as deeply.

Glycolic acid also helps increase the skin’s natural levels of hyaluronic acid to improve its hydration.

Lactic Acid 

Lactic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid, so it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as glycolic acid. 

It can penetrate through the stratum corneum and , depending on the formulation, reach the upper levels of the stratum granulosum. 

Coupled with this, it is a humectant which means it draws moisture into the skin to boost its hydration.

Lactic acid is beneficial for sensitive skins prone to breakouts and those new to chemical exfoliation. 

For those concerned about irritation but still wanting effective exfoliation, lactic acid offers a good middle ground between the deeper-penetrating glycolic acid and the very gentle, surface-level action of mandelic acid or PHAs.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid has the largest molecular structure of the AHAs used in skincare. 

It has the most superficial penetration of the AHAs, passing through the stratum corneum and rarely reaching the upper parts of the stratum granulosum. 

The larger molecule size means mandelic acid penetrates slowly and evenly into the skin and works more gradually. It reduces the risk of irritation while still providing effective exfoliation. 

Mandelic acid is unique among AHAs because it has mild antibacterial properties, making it particularly effective for acne-prone skin that cannot tolerate stronger acids. 

It is recommended for: 

• Very sensitive skin types
• Skin prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Those using AHAs for the first-time. 
• Rosacea-prone skin
• Melanin rich skins that are more susceptible to inflammatory responses and hyperpigmentation

It's considered one of the gentlest AHAs, though it takes longer to see results compared to glycolic acid.

Malic Acid 

Malic acid falls in the middle range of penetration among AHAs. It passes through the stratum corneum and middle layers of the stratum granulosum. 

Its intermediate penetration means it provides more substantial exfoliation than mandelic acid, but with less irritation potential than glycolic acid. 

Malic acid has some unique characteristics that distinguish it from other AHAs. It has antioxidant properties and helps maintain proper pH in formulations. (It helps to keep the formulation stable)

It enhances the effectiveness of other AHAs and creates balanced product formulations. Malic acid is seldom used as a standalone ingredient in skincare products compared to glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acids, but its balanced penetration profile makes it a valuable ingredient in multi-acid formulations.

Because of its moderate penetration and relatively gentle nature, malic acid is often included in products designed for sensitive skin that still require effective exfoliation. 

It's frequently found in combination with glycolic or lactic acid to create products that provide thorough exfoliation with reduced irritation potential.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs are lipid-soluble hydroxy acids. This means they dissolve in oil and penetrate into your skin’s pores and work at a deeper level compared to AHAs. 

Your pores are ducts that lead from the sebaceous (oil) glands in the skin to the skin’s surface. 

Epidermal cells line sebaceous ducts and it is why comedones (blackheads) form in the pores. When the corneocytes lining these ducts do not shed properly, they mix with sebum and other debris and congest the pore, leading to comedones, papules and pustules. 

Because BHAs are oil soluble, they can penetrate the sebaceous duct (pore) where they dissolve corneocytes and congested sebum in the pore. This makes BHAs effective for oily skins, congestion, comedones and acne prone skins. 

BHAs come from natural sources, or manufacturers also create them synthetically.

The most well known and frequently used BHA for skin care is salicylic acid.

In the world of skincare, you often find the terms BHA and salicylic acid used interchangeably. BHA is the broad term that refers to a specific class of acids and salicylic acid is a type of BHA. 

The reason you often see the two terms used interchangeably is because salicylic acid is the most common and widely used BHA in skincare, so if a product contains BHA, it is usually salicylic acid. 

Natural sources of BHA come from willow bark, wintergreen leaves, and sweet birch bark.  

Most salicylic acid used in skincare is synthetically manufactured to ensure purity, consistency, and cost-effectiveness.

Skincare formulations use both natural and synthetic salicylic acid, and this is important to know.

People usually consider natural BHAs gentler because they contain other natural compounds that work together to soothe skin, while synthetic BHAs are more potent. 

Generally, skincare professionals and product manufacturers prefer synthetic salicylic acid because of its stability. 

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

PHAs are gentle exfoliating acids similar to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). 

They have larger molecules than AHAs and BHAs and so they do not penetrate the skin as quickly or deeply as their AHA and BHA cousins, so they are gentler and less likely to irritate the skin. 

Besides exfoliating, PHAs also hydrate the skin by attracting and holding moisture in it, which is another reason they are beneficial for exfoliating sensitive skins, because they help to keep skin barrier function healthy. 

Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose are the most popular PHAs used in skincare formulations. They are especially beneficial for treating sensitive skins and teenage skins that need gentle exfoliation without irritation to compromise their skin barrier function. 

Enzymatic Exfoliants

Enzymatic exfoliators remove corneocytes through a different process compared to AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.

They work through a process called proteolysis, specifically targeting and breaking down keratin proteins in the corneocytes without affecting surrounding tissues.

This process mimics your skin's natural desquamation process. Your body naturally produces enzymes to break down corneodesmosomes during desquamation and enzymatic exfoliants enhance this natural process.

This is how it happens:

• Enzyme exfoliants have Protein-Specific Action where they recognize and bind to specific protein structures (such as keratin) in corneocytes.
• They work on the surface of the epidermis and target the outermost layers of the stratum corneum, digesting only the dead protein structures without penetrating deeper.
• The enzymes are highly selective, and only break down only the "glue" between dead skin cells without affecting healthy cells or disrupting the skin's pH balance.
• Self-Limiting Action: Once the keratin of the corneocytes is depleted, enzymes naturally stop working. 

This is why enzymatic exfoliants are gentler than acids—they specifically target only the protein "bridges" between dead cells rather than disrupting all the bonds between cells like AHAs do. 

Their selective action makes enzyme exfoliants particularly suitable for sensitive skin types.

Bromelain, from pineapples, papain from papayas, and pumpkin enzymes are the most popular enzymatic exfoliators. 

Besides providing the benefits of effective yet gentle exfoliators, each one has a unique action that offers additional help to the skin. 

Bromelain soothes inflammation, papaya is brightening and pumpkin enzymes improve skin texture and boost radiance. 

Enzymatic exfoliants often contain blends of these ingredients to improve the synergy of their effects. 

How do AHAs and Enzyme Exfoliators Differ? 

Sometimes people think that because enzymes and AHAs are both chemical exfoliants, they have the same effect on the skin. 

It’s important to understand that they each work through different mechanisms to exfoliate the skin, which explains their varying effects and suitability for different skin types.

These are their key differences:

• Target areas: Enzymes only target specific protein structures in the corneocytes while AHAs affect all intercellular bonds they come into contact with regardless of cell type.
• Depth of action: Enzymes work on the surface corneocytes that are ready to be shed through desquamation, while AHAs can work at deeper levels of the epidermis.
• Irritation Potential: Enzymes cause less irritation than AHAs because they work best with the skin’s pH, their action is limited and they work only on the surface cells of the stratum corneum. AHAs have a higher irritation potential because of their acidic nature and deeper penetration. 
• Duration of Action: Enzymes are self-limiting, and will stop working once they have digested all the keratin available. AHAs will continue to work until neutralized or removed.
• Skin Type Matters: Enzymes are better suited to sensitive skin types, whereas AHAs can be more effective in addressing significant texture issues, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.

Understanding the differences between how enzyme exfoliants and AHAs work helps you to see why enzyme exfoliators are often recommended as a gentler alternative for sensitive skin types who cannot tolerate the more potent actions of AHAs.

Retinoid-Based Treatments

Retinoids come from Vitamin A (retinol) and play an essential role in the functioning and health of skin cells.  

They are a family of ingredients that include both natural and synthetic derivatives of Vitamin A and several types of compounds: 

• Natural retinoids (found in the body and food sources) include:
• Retinol (Vitamin A)
• Retinal (or retinaldehyde)
• Retinoic acid (the active form that skin cells can directly use)
• Synthetic retinoids (created in laboratories), and include:
  • Adapalene
  • Tazarotene
  • Tretinoin

The strength and effectiveness of retinoids vary depending on their specific type.  Prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene are the most potent, while over-the-counter products like retinol and retinal are milder, with gentler effects that may take longer to see results.  

While not traditionally categorized as exfoliants, retinoids have a significant impact on keratinization, and in doing so play an important role in desquamation and skin renewal.

They are unique because they don't just remove corneocytes, but alter how skin cells develop, mature, and shed.

Unlike exfoliants, retinoids reprogram the skin and address multiple skin concerns at the same time (acne, aging, pigmentation), making their effects more profound.

Through cellular reprogramming, retinoids can normalize the entire keratinization process rather than just removing cells that have already been improperly keratinized.

Retinoids work at a much deeper level than typical exfoliants, and when you apply them to your skin, they are converted into retinoic acid so they can interact with the skin cells. 

This is the conversion process that takes place:

Then the retinoic acid works on a cellular level and binds to specific nuclear receptors in the skin known as Retinoic Acid Receptors (RARs).

The RARs regulate cell growth, differentiation, and inflammation. When retinoic acid binds to RARs, they trigger a series of genetic changes that improve skin health. Here’s what happens, they: 

• Normalize the keratinization process at a cellular level
• Accelerate cell turnover rates and improve exfoliation
• Enhance the production of keratin
• Regulate enzymes involved in natural desquamation
• Stimulate collagen and elastin production
• Regulate inflammation
• Normalize the release and distribution of melanin in the skin

When you use retinoids on your skin, their benefits go beyond exfoliation. You improve the overall health, functioning, and appearance of your skin with longer lasting results.  

Bio Retinols

Bio retinols have shot to popularity over the past five years. 

They are plant-derived compounds that mimic the effects of traditional retinol in the skin without causing irritation or sensitivity. 

Bio retinols offer similar benefits to traditional retinol (like smoother skin, fewer wrinkles, and less acne). Unlike retinoids, though, they do not require conversion within the skin (like retinoids do) to work. 

Bio retinols: 

• Regulate Keratinization. Like traditional retinoids, bio-retinols help normalize keratinocyte development, preventing excessive keratin buildup that can lead to clogged pores and rough skin.

This supports a balanced stratum corneum, improving skin texture and barrier function.

• Enhance desquamation. Bio-retinols encourage controlled exfoliation by promoting healthy cell turnover, leading to smoother, brighter skin.

Synthetic retinoids can cause excessive peeling, while bio-retinols work gradually, preventing irritation while still improving skin renewal.

• Stimulate collagen and elastin production helping to improve skin texture, tone and elasticity, and fading scarring, hyperpigmentation, and skin aging 
• Are gentler on the skin. Unlike synthetic retinoids, they don’t cause redness, peeling, or dryness, making them great for sensitive skin.
• Don’t cause photosensitivity. Traditional retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight, leading to photodamage, but bio-retinols are safe to use during the day.
• Are plant-based making them popular in clean, natural, and botanical skincare brands.  
• Do not require a slow, and gradual acclimatization process for the skin to get used to them.
• Are safe to use during pregnancy. Using retinoids during pregnancy is not recommended, but bio retinols are safe to use as they don’t have any of the side effects of retinoids and interact with the skin in a different way.

Currently, bakuchiol, bidens pilosa and rock samphire are the most well known bio-retinols being used. 

Bakuchiol is the most well known and tackles aging concerns, improves skin texture, and is particularly effective for helping treat acne. 

Bidens pilosa is particularly beneficial for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis, making it effective for treating aging, photoaging, and skin texture concerns like scarring. 

Rock samphire helps to regulate sebum production which makes it a good choice for oily and acne prone skins. 

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a powerful active ingredient that exfoliates the skin in a unique and gentle way compared to AHAs, or BHAs. 

Instead of dissolving the bonds between skin cells, it regulates keratinization and desquamation, which: 

• Prevents excess keratin buildup
• Keeps corneocytes from sticking together 
• Encourages controlled cell turnover by gradually increasing desquamation rather than forcing rapid shedding 
• Prevents the build of corneocytes on the skin’s surface

It also has effective antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Because azelaic acid regulates rather than disrupts these processes, it’s less irritating than AHAs or BHAs, making it ideal for sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-prone skin.

It helps keep the skin smooth, bright, and even-toned, reducing rough texture and hyperpigmentation.

Because it exfoliates gently, Azelaic acid is an excellent option for people who struggle with acne, hyperpigmentation, or sensitive skin but can’t tolerate stronger exfoliating acids.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide mainly works as an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent, but it has mild effects on keratinization and desquamation. This adds to its ability to help acne and clear breakouts.

It helps to reduce hyperkeratinization, while being a gentle keratolytic that promotes mild exfoliation and prevents the build up of debris in pores that can lead to the formation of blackheads, pustules and breakouts. 

However, benzoyl peroxide is not as strong an exfoliant as AHAs, BHAs, or even Azelaic acid. It helps support exfoliation while primarily being used to destroy acne causing bacteria and reduce inflammation. 

Because it can be drying, it’s important to use it carefully to avoid irritation or peeling. 

DIY & Natural Exfoliation: What Works & What to Avoid

As a professional aesthetician, I firmly believe that professionally formulated products are always preferable to DIY options, and it's important to understand why:

• Formulation science: Commercial products are pH-balanced, properly preserved, and stability-tested to ensure consistent results and safety.
• Precise concentrations: Professional formulations contain exact percentages of active ingredients to give predictable results
• Support ingredients: Quality products contain buffers, hydrators, and anti-irritants alongside exfoliating agents, so they have a more well rounded effect on the skin. 
• Consistency: DIY preparations vary significantly batch-to-batch, making results unpredictable
• Risk factors: Untested combinations and raw ingredients are unstable and unpredictable. They can cause irritation, allergic reactions, or excessive exfoliation.

While professional formulations offer precision and stability, some natural ingredients can provide effective and gentle exfoliation when used properly.

If you are committed to natural approaches, then I recommend the following:

• Use single-ingredient options (like plain yogurt) rather than complex mixtures.
• Perform a patch test for 24 hours before applying ingredients or products to your face.
• Start with short application times (5 minutes) and gradually increase the time as you see how well your skin tolerates the exfoliant. 
• Always finish by using a moisturizer that is suitable for your skin. 
• If any tingling, burning or irritation occurs, remove the ingredients from your skin and discontinue use immediately.
• Consider professionally formulated natural products that have been tested as a safer alternative to true DIY

Recommended Natural DIY Exfoliants 

• Oatmeal: Contains saponins that gently cleanse your skin, while polyphenols soothe inflammation. Grind oatmeal into a fine powder and mix with honey.
• Yogurt: Contains natural lactic acid that gently exfoliates while soothing and hydrating the skin.
• Honey: Contains natural enzymes that dissolve corneocytes cells while attracting moisture to the skin and providing antimicrobial benefits.
• Rice powder: This traditional Asian beauty ingredient provides gentle physical exfoliation and has anti-inflammatory benefits. 
• Powdered enzymes: Pineapple or papaya powder mixed with water can provide enzyme exfoliation. 

Natural DIY Ingredients to Avoid

• Lemon Juice: Its acidic pH can disrupt your skin's natural pH and lead to irritation, sensitivity and compromised skin barrier function. 
• Baking Soda: Its high alkaline pH (pH9) 9 damages the acid mantle, disrupts the beneficial bacteria that live on your skin, and can cause long-term sensitivity. 

It can also be too abrasive if used with too much pressure. 

• Sugar or salt scrubs: These are often too abrasive for facial skin, and cause micro-tears that lead to inflammation and barrier damage.
• Apple cider vinegar: Similar to lemon juice, undiluted vinegar is too acidic and can disrupt the skin’s pH and cause irritation and sensitivity. 
• Walnut or apricot shell scrubs: Like sugar and salt scrubs, they are often irregular shapes with sharp edges that cause micro-tears on the skin.
  

The Skincare Expert’s Guide to Exfoliation

With so many active exfoliants and products to choose from, it can be overwhelming to know what to use and when. 

After treating over 2000 clients in my clinic as a licensed medical aesthetician, I understand what your questions and concerns are. 

I’ve heard most questions that people have about how and what they should be using when it comes to exfoliation. 

With this in mind, I’ve included the guidelines I share with my clients to help you choose the right exfoliating products, understand when and how to add exfoliation to your skincare routine, and how to adapt your routine to keep your skin safe, healthy and glowing. 

Physical or Chemical Exfoliation: Which is Best?

The skincare industry has shifted toward chemical exfoliation in recent years, with professionals often preferring chemical methods for their predictability and specialized targeting. 

However, many skincare professionals recognize that a balanced approach often gives the best results, with chemical exfoliants providing regular gentle exfoliation and occasional physical exfoliation for specific concerns.

These are the ideal scenarios for physical exfoliation:

• For immediate results before a special event
• When skin feels rough but isn't irritated or sensitive 
• For those who have concerns about chemical ingredients
• For body exfoliation, particularly thicker-skinned areas, likes hands, elbows, knees, and feet
• When combined with cleansing for efficiency (some cleansers contain exfoliating granules). 
• For oily skin types without active inflammation

And these are Ideal Scenarios for Chemical Exfoliation:

• Treating specific skin concerns (for example hyperpigmentation, or acne)
• For sensitive skin that can't tolerate scrubbing
• For aging skin requiring deeper regeneration
• To maintain results between professional treatments
• For treating areas prone to congestion
• For consistent, controlled exfoliation
• To help boost cell turnover in older skins and target aging concerns
• Gentle chemical exfoliants are recommended for hyperpigmentation or sensitive melanin rich skins.

When you are creating an exfoliating routine, you don’t have to choose one method or the other. Sometimes it makes sense to have a combination approach. 

Can You Have a Combined Approach?

There are times you can combine physical and chemical exfoliation in your routine to get better results. 

• Use gentle physical exfoliation once a week with regular low-percentage chemical exfoliants.
• Alternate methods based on seasonal skin changes. 

For example, your skin may benefit from stronger chemical exfoliants in summer if it is prone to breakouts in hot weather. 

In winter, you may opt for physical exfoliants that give you instant visual and sensory smoothing effect.

• Use chemical exfoliants regularly and boost exfoliation benefits with occasional deeper physical treatments. 

This is beneficial for mature skins, where they can use chemical exfoliants to stimulate cell turnover, improve collagen and elastin synthesis, and fade fine lines and wrinkles. 

Physical exfoliants can help boost the effects of specialized treatments or masks to enhance product penetration. 

• Select different methods for different areas of the face based on needs. 

This method works well for combination skins. If the skin’s T-zone is oily and congested, it may benefit from a stronger BHA exfoliant that helps to decongest the pores and prevent blackhead and pustules. 

If your cheeks are drier, you can use a gentle physical exfoliant or milder chemical exfoliator that doesn’t irritate the skin. 

How to Create your Ideal Exfoliation Routine

When it comes to exfoliation and selecting the right routine and products, there is no “one size fits all” strategy. Many factors influence how effective exfoliation will be for your skin. 

The key to successful exfoliation lies in understanding your skin and how exfoliation affects it, so you can customize your approach based on your skin type, needs and concerns, and skincare goals. 

Even when you develop a routine, remember your skin is a living organ that is always changing as it adapts to what is happening in your body and the outside world. So, monitor your skin and adjust your routine according to these changes. 

Let’s look at the factors that influence the effects of exfoliation on your skin:

• Skin type and condition: 

Your exfoliation routine will need to be adapted according to your skin type (for example, if your skin is dry, oily, or combination) and its condition (whether it is healthy, sensitive, or damaged).

• Skin concerns: 

Specific skin concerns will affect the exfoliators you choose and how often you use them. 

If you have a skin concern like acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation, you need to choose products and routines that support the skin condition and don’t harm the skin barrier function or exacerbate the condition. 

• Age: 

As you age, your skin cell turnover slows down. This means you’ll choose different methods and frequencies of exfoliation, along with active ingredients in your twenties compared to your when you’re in your forties.

• Climate and environmental factors: 

The climate and environment you find yourself in affects your skin condition and the way you exfoliate. 

Hot and humid climates can make skin oiler and more congested, which means you’ll need products like BHAs that target these concerns, compared to a drier climate which dries the skin, makes it more sensitive and will require gentle exfoliation methods. 

• Seasons: 

As the seasons change, so does your skin. Seasonal changes impact skin behavior and exfoliation needs, and it’s a good idea to adapt your skincare routine to how your skin responds to these changes. 

Your skin may require less frequent, more gentle exfoliation in winter compared to summer when you need to exfoliate more often.

• Existing skincare routine: 

Be aware of hidden exfoliating ingredients in the products you already use. 

Cleansers, toners, and masks often contain mild exfoliants, and moisturizers and serums can contain AHAs, BHAs, PHAs. Without realising it, you could harm your skin by over-exfoliating it. 

Check all your product ingredient labels to see if they contain any exfoliants. 

• Current treatments or medications: 

Topical treatments and medications you are using to treat skin concerns will affect the type of exfoliating ingredients you use. 

For example, if you are treating acne with topical retinoids or Accutane, the skin will be sensitive and may not need exfoliation. Any additional exfoliation can damage your skin barrier function and lead to irritation and sensitization. 

• Ethnic skin differences in pigmentation responses: 

Harsh physical exfoliation and certain chemical exfoliants can overstimulate melanin rich skins and cause hyperpigmentation. 

They irritate and sensitize the skin, which responds by increasing melanin production to protect itself from harsh treatments. 

Seasonal Exfoliation: Adjusting Your Routine Throughout the Year

Adapt your exfoliation routine throughout the year to help you maintain optimal skin health through seasonal challenges.

Why Seasonal Adjustments Matter

• Environmental factors (humidity, temperature, wind) directly affect skin barrier function
• Seasonal changes alter your skin’s sebum production and natural moisture levels
• UV exposure varies significantly throughout the year. This can impact your skin’s condition, the type of exfoliator you choose, and how often you need to exfoliate. 
• Indoor heating and cooling systems affect skin hydration. They tend to dry and dehydrate the skin, affecting skin barrier function which can make the skin more sensitive. 

Your Winter Exfoliation Strategy

During colder months, focus on gentle exfoliation that preserves hydration:

• Reduce frequency: 

Decrease exfoliation to 1-2 times weekly to prevent stripping the skin and compromising your skin barrier function.

• Choose hydrating acids: 

Opt for moisture-retaining exfoliants like:

• PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) that gently exfoliate and hydrate the skin at the same time. 
• Lactic acid, which attracts moisture while exfoliating
• Lower concentrations of glycolic acid that are combined with humectants
• Consider oil-based exfoliants: 

Products that combine gentle acids with nourishing oils can exfoliate without compromising barrier function, keeping the skin safe and healthy. 

• Follow immediately with heavy moisturizers: 

Apply rich moisturizers while skin is still slightly damp after exfoliation to help lock in moisture.

• Avoid harsh physical exfoliators: 

Central heating systems and exposure to harsh weather dry and sensitize the skin. Using harsh physical exfoliators can exacerbate winter dryness and irritation.

Your Summer Exfoliation Strategy

During warmer months, focus on gentle, consistent exfoliation with sun protection:

• Increase sun protection: 

Use SPF 30-50 daily without exception, as exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage.

• Choose evening-only exfoliation: 

Reserve chemical exfoliants for nighttime use to minimize photosensitivity issues.

• Incorporate antioxidant pairings: 

Follow exfoliation with antioxidant rich serums to combat increased free radical production caused by sun exposure. 

• Address increased oil production: 

BHAs like salicylic acid can help maintain clear pores during summer months when sebum production increases.

• Manage hyperpigmentation: 

Gentle, consistent exfoliation with ingredients like low-percentage AHAs and PHAs can help prevent and treat summer pigmentation.

• Consider enzyme exfoliants: These can be less photosensitizing than AHAs while still providing effective exfoliation.

Transitional Season Adjustments for Spring and Fall

During transitional seasons, adopt a balanced approach. Pay attention to how your skin responds and adjust according to your skin’s needs:

• Gradually adjust the frequency of exfoliation as the season changes.
• Use combination products that offer both exfoliation and barrier support.
• Consider alternating between physical and chemical methods based on your skin’s needs.

Choosing The Best Exfoliation Routine for Your Age Group

Your skin's needs change dramatically throughout life. The best skincare routines support your skin’s condition, season, age and needs at the stage it is in. 

What may have worked in your twenties might not work in your thirties. This applies to exfoliation too, so focus on age appropriate exfoliation strategies that address your skin’s shifting concerns.

Teens & Early 20s

Young skin typically has faster cell turnover but often struggles with excess oil, acne, and early sun damage. Focus on the following strategies:

• BHA focus: 

Salicylic acid helps manage acne, blackheads, and excess oil by penetrating into pores and decongesting clogged pores. 

• Gentle AHAs: 

Low-concentration glycolic or lactic acid can help maintain radiance without irritation.

Although it can be tempting to opt for stronger exfoliants, choose gentle exfoliators that you use more often rather than stronger formulations that have the potential to irritate the skin and cause imbalances.

• Frequency: 

Younger skins usually tolerate more frequent exfoliation (2-3 times weekly). Plus, the skin may require more frequent exfoliation due to the effects of their current lifestyle factors. 

• Physical exfoliation: 

Gentle scrubs with rounded particles can be used occasionally, but avoid them during active breakouts

• Target areas: 

Focus on the T-zone where sebum production and congestion are usually highest.

• Caution!

Understanding the risks of over-exfoliating is essential, as this age group tends to be aggressive with exfoliants and acne treatments. 

30s & 40s

During these decades, cell turnover slows, early signs of photoaging appear, and hormonal fluctuations affect skin. These exfoliation strategies help you deal with these concerns: 

• Retinoids: 

Consider using retinoids to normalize keratinization, address fine lines, and target photoaging that may be present. 

• Use medium-strength AHAs: 

Glycolic acid or combination AHA products help address uneven skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. 

• Strategic BHA use: 

Salicylic acid can still be beneficial for hormonal breakouts, especially along the jawline

• Exfoliating masks: 

Weekly treatment masks combining multiple acids can provide deeper, targeted exfoliation.

• Professional treatments: 

Consider adding quarterly professional chemical peels or microneedling to your skincare routine to boost the skin and address seasonal changes that may affect it. 

• Frequency: 

Exfoliate 2-3 times weekly, alternate between different exfoliating active ingredients.

• Antioxidant pairings: 

Always follow exfoliation with antioxidant-rich products to combat increasing free radical damage, which contributes to skin aging. 

50+ and Mature Skin

During this period, the skin becomes thinner, drier, and more fragile. The skin needs a gentle approach to exfoliation that prioritizes hydration and barrier function:

• Focus on Hydration: 

PHAs provide gentle exfoliation while maintaining moisture levels in the skin. 

• Enzyme exfoliation: 

Bromelain, papain, and pumpkin enzymes offer gentle exfoliation without stripping the skin’s natural oils.

• Opt for Lactic Acid: 

If you use AHAs, choose lactic acid because it will hydrate the skin while exfoliating. 

• Reduce frequency: 

Limit exfoliation to 1-2 times weekly to allow for longer recovery periods.

• Gentler concentrations: 

Use lower percentages of active exfoliating ingredients to prevent irritation and harming skin barrier function. 

• Layer hydration: 

Layer hydrating products on the skin after exfoliation to ensure your skin remains hydrated and your barrier function is not compromised. 

• Avoid harsh physical methods: 

Skip granular scrubs and choose soft silicone tools if you want the effects of physical exfoliation. 

• Professional options: 

Consider gentle professional treatments like enzyme peels rather than aggressive resurfacing for mature skin.

How to Safely and Effectively Combine Exfoliating Ingredients

Just as you can combine the way you exfoliate your skin, you can also combine exfoliating ingredients. 

When you combine exfoliants, your goal is to create a synergistic effect. The active ingredients must complement and enhance each other’s effects rather than creating a combination that over-stimulates the skin and causes irritation and damage. 

Combinations should be based on the person’s skin type, concern, and skin sensitivity along with the result they want from their exfoliant. 

Here are some examples of safe active exfoliating ingredient combinations:

• Retinoids and AHAs (especially Skinbetter AlphaRet Overnight Cream)
• BHAs and niacinamide
• Azelaic acid and retinoids
• Azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide
• Enzyme exfoliants and BHAs

These are examples of ingredient pairing that are too harsh and can cause irritation, peeling and sensitization:

• AHAs and retinoids for those new to exfoliation or using chemical exfoliants for the first time
• Benzoyl peroxide and retinoids

Many exfoliating products already contain blends of active exfoliants. Before you choose a product, make sure that the ingredients that are combined make sense for your skin, the concern you want to treat, and the health and sensitivity of your skin. 

If you are in doubt, consult a skin care professional who will get to know your skin and then help you choose the right product.  

6 Pro Tips to Get the Best Results from Active Exfoliants

To get the best results from chemical exfoliants and active ingredients, here are 6 guidelines for adding them to your skincare routine. They’ll help you minimize skin irritation and sensitivity and get the best results from your products at the same time: 

• Start with lower concentrations of the active exfoliants and gradually increase them as your skin gets used to them.
• Add them to your skincare routine slowly. Start by applying them twice a week and gradually increase how often you apply them as your skin gets used to them. 
• Use with soothing and hydrating ingredients like aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to prevent the skin from becoming dry and dehydrated, and maintain your skin barrier function.
• Apply active exfoliants in the evening. Most of them can make the skin photosensitive and more prone to sun damage and hyperpigmentation. Avoid applying them during the day.
• Cleanse your skin thoroughly in the morning after using active exfoliants the night before to ensure they are removed from the skin and don’t cause photosensitivity during the day. 
• Always use sunscreen (SPF 30+) during the day when you use active exfoliants.

The Key to Effective Exfoliation: Balance & Consistency

Exfoliation is an important step in your skincare routine for maintaining a healthy, glowing complexion. 

What works best depends on your skin’s needs. Whether you choose enzymes, acids, or a combination, the key is to exfoliate wisely, and ‘listen’ to your skin, 

The best approach is a balanced, personalized routine that considers your skin type, concerns, and tolerance levels. With the right strategy, exfoliation can help transform your skin, unlock its natural radiance and keep it healthy for the long run. 

 

Do you have thoughts or questions you want to share with us about your exfoliation routine? Share them with us in the comments below.